Fashion 360: Decoding Circular Fashion.

Understanding the topic that everyone is talking about.

By Nyasa Thakkar

Photo Credit : Nyasa Thakkar

Event : Lakmé Fashion Week

Important lessons learned through circular fashion:

• To promote product recyclability, use mono materials whenever feasible and make sure that items constructed of various materials may be readily disassembled.
• Determine which materials and chemicals of concern are used in production that hinder recycling or create pollution, and then collaborate with suppliers to have them removed.

• Take into account methods to collect and reuse/recycle additional waste in the supply chain, such as garment offcuts and packaging, by collaborating with partner organizations or using internal procedures.
• Encourage the development of technology to recycle discarded textiles back into "good as new" raw materials and extend the life of clothing by creating or taking part in collection programs.

“A circular fashion industry is one in which waste and pollution are designed out, products and materials are kept in use for as long as possible, including through reusing and recycling, and where natural systems are regenerated.”- Common Objective

Creating a waste-free design
Most economies in use today are built on a linear model. The earth's resources are taken, processed into goods, and then discarded when they are no longer needed. Even though there might be some recycling and reuse along the way, "take-make-waste" is still the main process.

On the other hand, a more sustainable method is, well, more circular; it aims to prolong the life of extracted resources by producing goods that can be easily recycled into raw materials for further use in production, hence reducing the need for new resource extraction.

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation refers to this as “decoupling economic activity from the consumption of finite resources, and designing waste out of the system”.

Circular fashion and sustainable production
A circular model, however, is more than just a non-linear strategy emphasizing zero waste. Additionally, it guarantees that the processes of "take" and "make," or the extraction of virgin materials and their conversion into goods, are renewable and sustainable

Creating a circular fashion industry

A full system approach is used in circular way. The following issues must be resolved for the fashion industry to transition from a linear to a circular model.

1. Consider sustainability and circularity while designing
This should take into account how a product will be created, utilized, and eventually disposed of from a design standpoint in addition to planning out waste and the usage of virgin raw materials. Using single fibers instead of blends, making sure hardware and trims are easily removed and recoverable for reuse, using safe colors and finishes to promote recyclability, and creating items entirely of mono materials are some design considerations.

2. Make things sustainably
Using natural resources—raw materials or those that fuel production—in a way that allows them to be repaired and regenerated rather than depleted and generating pollution is a crucial component of a circular economy approach to fashion.
For instance, by employing closed loop manufacturing, traceable fibers produced through regenerative agriculture techniques, renewable energy, or fibers derived from waste streams or food production byproducts.

3. Continue to use for an extended period of time
This entails not only making durable apparel, shoes, and accessories but also revamping and repurposing current items, such as by upcycling them, and reconsidering ownership through sharing, renting, and selling models.

4. Easily recycle back into original materials
The amount of present methods and facilities for collection, reprocessing, and recycling is significantly less than what would be required to maintain all current clothing and footwear in circulation, whether via recycling, upcycling, or resale. Innovative techniques are being developed to recycle clothing, including mixes, into fibers that are as high-quality as virgin raw materials again (instead of just being able to generate yarns and degraded fibers that are less acceptable for clothing.)

5. Quickly, simply, and safely return any trash to the natural world
Even while scientific phrases like "biodegrade" and "compost" aren't typically linked with the fashion industry, fashion professionals must become familiar with these processes in order to make informed decisions because not all waste can be completely planned out. If a material can no longer be used, it should be returned to the earth as soon as possible, easily, and without causing pollution.

What circular fashion isn't
The sector has seen a rise in circularity, but there is still uncertainty about what it actually is. Is it at risk of becoming just another fashion label's catchphrase, the next big thing to claim they are doing?
Items that are upcycled, constructed from recycled materials, or even just recyclable are becoming more and more common and are marketed as "circular fashion."

Material recovery is not the only aspect of circularity. It goes beyond simply planning for lifespan, renting, or reselling. It involves integrating all of those elements as well as additional ones.

The circular economy is a framework. Although they all have a role to play, recycling facilities, take-back programs, upcycled apparel, pollution-free dyehouses, and more are not circular in and of themselves; rather, they are all catalysts for the development of a circular fashion sector.
Nevertheless, they might also be a part of the prevailing linear model (the person who buys a used outfit might simply discard it after using it, a rented item might be difficult to recycle and put to another use after it wears out, and so on).

The circular fashion industry's future:

For the time being, circularity is not the fashion industry's magic bullet.
It might be, but there aren't presently the mechanisms in place to ensure that even all of the clothing and shoes that are now on the market are worn, reused, and disposed of safely. And we're still producing new goods at a fast pace using virgin materials. The advancements made are insufficient to counteract increase.

Presently, corporate take-back programs encourage customers to return unwanted clothing by providing coupons for further purchases. As per the research "The Future of Circular Fashion" by Fashion for Good, 80% of customers who return clothing use their voucher to buy a new item from the same brand.

It is debatable if shifting to a circular fashion industry can address the effects of business models that depend on constant expansion, steadily rising production quantities, and customers' need for novelty.
But even making the effort to switch to a more circular model helps cut down on pollution and waste.

India’s Circular Design Challenge
India's largest circular fashion prize is the Circular Design Challenge. It provides a venue for up-and-coming fashion and accessory designers to exhibit their creations that use waste as a resource and circularity as their primary design concept.

The waste problem in fashion is stated in bold letters for the present. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation projects that by 2050, there would be over 150 million garment waste pieces in landfills due to current consumption patterns. A lot of work is being done to counteract this impending threat, such as slowing down and designing products more thoughtfully.
Rethinking the materials that are used to produce objects could be crucial for the future of design, if the most recent edition of CDC is any guide. Here come sunglasses created from used chip packets and footwear made from algae among numerous more cutting-edge concepts and product introductions.

Banofi founder Jinali Mody and Studio Beej accessories designer Arundhati Kumar collaborated to make bags, belts, and bracelets with leftover banana harvest material. The plant-based leather, which combines traditional craftsmanship with bio-research, promises to save carbon emissions and water use by up to 80% and 90%, respectively, when compared to genuine leather. In Malpani's winning collection, inexpensive eyeglasses and jewelry made with 90% recyclable materials and a significantly smaller carbon footprint were created from chip packets, demonstrating extraordinary skill. His technology—which is pending patent—begins with a chemically driven method that splits the packets' layers entirely. Synthetic materials are then added, creating bending frames.

The other finalists focused on their own design processes and the waste produced throughout the clothing manufacturing process. Riddhi Jain Satija and Dhruv Satija of the Delhi-based label Studio Medium breathed new life into the 1.5 lakh km of thread that is thrown out annually during the production of bandhani. Using a dreamy pastel color scheme, they created new textured clothing such as coats and overlays using a variety of techniques like as patchwork, quilting, and weaving. Working together with weavers in Bhuj who utilize pre-existing templates, the pair has established a network of artisans eager to advance this upcycling.

On the other hand, Amesh Wijesekera, a Sri Lankan-born designer living in London, used leftovers from street markets, manufacturing excess, and deadstock wool from Scandinavian nations—residues of the island nation's extensive import and export trade. In addition to discovering more recent handwoven textiles, his research also produced "techniques to replicate digital printing that makes considerably less water use." Pei-Wen Jin, a Taiwanese designer with a trademarked zero-waste method, displayed leftover materials made into dresses, caps, wallets, and backpacks. Every piece she creates is modular, meaning it can be disassembled and worn in different ways.

In an effort to find a more sustainable way to get rid of the 80 million tons of banana waste that India produces each year, Banofi has also been in the works for years and has undergone continuous testing. Working with raw materials presents a number of challenges because the procedure is laborious and involves a lot of trial and error.

The shift toward a circular fashion industry is a vital step in addressing the environmental challenges posed by the traditional linear model of "take-make-waste." Through the integration of sustainable design, production, and consumption practices, circular fashion aims to minimize waste, extend the life of materials, and reduce the reliance on virgin resources. Key lessons such as using mono materials, eliminating hazardous substances, and enhancing recycling technologies are essential to this transformation.

The transition to a circular model is complex and multifaceted, involving the collaboration of designers, manufacturers, consumers, and policymakers. While the current efforts, including corporate take-back programs and innovative initiatives like India's Circular Design Challenge, show promise, there is still a long way to go. The industry must overcome significant obstacles, such as the lack of comprehensive recycling infrastructure and the continued demand for new products.

Despite these challenges, the pursuit of circular fashion offers hope for a more sustainable future. By rethinking how we design, produce, use, and dispose of clothing, we can reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry and move closer to a world where waste and pollution are designed out of the system. As awareness grows and more stakeholders embrace circular principles, the potential for meaningful change increases, paving the way for a truly sustainable fashion industry.

Growing environmental consciousness and a growing desire for sustainability have been the driving forces behind the fashion industry's recent dramatic shift. The idea of circular fashion, a cutting-edge strategy intended to reduce waste and extend the lifecycle of garments, lies at the core of this revolution.

The Origins of Circular Fashion

While the idea of recycling and sustainable living is not new, its application to the fashion industry started to gain traction in the early 21st century. The fast fashion boom of the 2000s, characterized by the rapid production of inexpensive clothing, led to a surge in textile waste and raised concerns about the environmental impact of the industry. This prompted a re-evaluation of production practices and the development of more sustainable approaches.

The circular fashion concept is rooted in the broader circular economy model, which aims to create a closed-loop system where resources are reused, recycled, and repurposed to eliminate waste.

The 2013 collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh, which took the lives of over 1,100 garment workers, brought attention to the ethical and environmental problems that affect the fashion industry. This catastrophe acted as a wake-up call, inspiring brands, activists, and customers to push for change. Initiatives that support sustainability and transparency in fashion, including Fashion Revolution, gained traction as a result. The implementation of circular concepts found fertile ground in the movement for ethical fashion.