Rerouting Our Ethics

Indian fashion is a celebration of diversity, tradition and sustainability. As we move forward with advancements, the ethics of Indian handmade textiles, brings us back to the roots.

By Shivika Bhargava & Kritika Chawla

In an era marked by rapid consumerism and fleeting trends, slow fashion stands out as a symbol of sustainability and cultural preservation. At its heart lies the rich heritage of Indian textiles, woven with tradition, sustainability, and a profound cultural legacy. Although India is second largest producer of textiles globally, the industry is also responsible for significant environmental degradation and labour exploitation.

Synthetic dyes in the textile industry have significant negative impacts, including environmental pollution and health risks. These dyes often contain harmful chemicals that contaminate water bodies, posing threats to aquatic ecosystems and human health due to their toxicity and carcinogenic properties. The dyeing process also consumes large amounts of water and generates substantial chemical waste, exacerbating environmental degradation. In contrast, natural dyes offer a sustainable alternative with numerous benefits. They are biodegradable, nontoxic, and safer for both the environment and human health.

Looking on the other perspective, “Natural dyes offer a unique selling proposition for Indian textiles in the global market. Consumers worldwide are increasingly conscious of the environmental and social impact of their purchases. By embracing natural dyes, Indian textile manufacturers can cater to this growing demand for sustainable and ethical products. Moreover, the vibrant obtained from natural sources are unparalleled in their beauty and authenticity, giving Indian textiles a competitive edge in terms of design and quality” says,Mrs Simran Rao, a Textile Design Teacher, at NIFT Delhi.

From water pollution to exploitative labour practices, the challenges facing sustainable fashion in India are diverse and require urgent attention. As increasing demand by the consumers, the fast fashion culture in India, where they prioritize trends and quick turnover of clothing, is a barrier for sustainable fashion. Despite the challenges choosing quality over quantity has brought the industry and designers closer to the country’s authenticity. It lies in embracing traditional techniques like natural dyes which are an environment friendly alternative to synthetic dyes, which can be harmful to the environment and human health.

An important article titled "Driving Sustainable Textiles: Innovations and Challenges" was published in The Economic Times on March 15, 2023, the article discusses the growing importance of sustainable practices in the Indian textile industry. It highlights innovations such as the adoption of organic cotton, eco-friendly dyes, and sustainable manufacturing processes by leading textile manufacturers in India. Raman Aggarwal, a 34-year-old textile specialist from Delhi, highlights the Indian textile industry's commitment to sustainable practices. He notes that the industry increasingly uses organic cotton and natural dyes, which significantly reduce the reliance on harmful chemicals and minimize water pollution. Additionally, Raman emphasizes the adoption of energy-efficient manufacturing processes that lower carbon emissions and enhance operational efficiency.

Sustainability is considered a fundamental necessity rather than a transient trend in the textile industry, essential for preserving craftsmanship. It is widely understood that sustainable practices play a crucial role in maintaining the longevity of traditional techniques and supporting the livelihoods of artisans. The value of craftsmanship is rekindled, with a surge in demand for handcrafted and artisanal fashion. Sustainable fashion design is not only about reducing the environmental impact of clothing production but also about creating social and economic benefits for the people involved in the industry. “Empowering local artisans can foster community resilience and cultural preservation,” says Shikha Menon, founder of MeSh, in an article dated 1st April 2024 via LinkedIn.

The country’s traditional handicrafts, weaving techniques, and textiles can be utilized to produce sustainable fashion products that cater to both local and global consumers. Several sustainable fashion brands in India have already recognized this opportunity and are creating distinctive eco-friendly and ethically made products.

These brands in India are pioneering the shift towards ethical fashion. By prioritizing transparency, fair labour practices, and sustainable materials, these brands are setting new standards for the industry. Nitya Arora, a 29-year-old fashion designer and brand owner in Delhi, says, "my perspective on sustainable and ethical fashion is paramount. I believe that in today's dynamic industry, embracing sustainability and ethical practices isn't just a choice; it's a necessity. From sourcing materials to manufacturing processes, every decision we make at my brand reflects our commitment to reducing environmental impact and ensuring fair treatment of workers. Sustainability isn't just a buzzword; it's a core value that shapes our brand's identity and mission."

One of the prominent brands leading this way is Fabindia. Known for its commitment to traditional craftsmanship and sustainable practices, Fabindia promotes the use of natural and eco-friendly materials in its products. They work closely with artisans across rural India, supporting their livelihoods and preserving traditional crafts. Fabindia also emphasizes transparency in their supply chain and has implemented initiatives to reduce their environmental impact, such as water conservation and waste management program. Another such brand Okhai, which comes under the umbrella of Tata Chemicals Society for Rural Development, offers handcrafted apparel and lifestyle products created by rural artisans from across India. These artisans are gifted with the talent and traditional skills to craft exquisite designs in styles that are unique to their culture and heritage.

Not only it's about, fashion brands promoting artisans but, P-Tal as seen on Shark Tank season 3, the lifestyle brand aims to revive a dying art form of Thathera community of Jandiala Guru based out in Amritsar.

In recent years, there has been a growing demand for sustainable fashion in India, driven by a combination of consumer awareness and government policies promoting sustainable development. As per a report by the Boston Consulting Group (BCG), the sustainable fashion market in India is estimated to reach $9 billion by 2025. (BCG Report) The report also suggests that the Indian consumer’s awareness and willingness to pay for sustainable products are increasing. The Government of India has implemented several initiatives and policies to promote sustainability in the textile industry. These efforts focus on encouraging eco-friendly practices, supporting traditional craftsmanship, and ensuring ethical labor conditions. Here are some key measures taken by the government:

1. Sustainable Textiles Policy: The government has developed policies aimed at promoting the use of sustainable materials and practices in the textile industry. This includes encouraging the use of organic cotton, natural dyes, and eco-friendly manufacturing processes.

2. Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS): This scheme aims to facilitate the adoption of cleaner and more efficient technologies in textile processing units. It focuses on reducing water consumption, pollution, and promoting the use of renewable energy sources.

3. Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS): The ATUFS provides financial incentives to textile units for upgrading their technology to more efficient and environmentally friendly options. This helps in reducing the environmental impact of textile production.

4. Promotion of Handloom and Handicrafts: The government supports traditional handloom and handicraft sectors through various schemes like the National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) and the Handicrafts Mega Cluster Mission. These initiatives aim to preserve traditional crafts while promoting sustainable and fair trade practices

The transition to sustainable textiles holds immense potential to support the development of local artists and artisans. By promoting the use of traditional craftsmanship and natural materials, sustainable practices provide a valuable platform for local artists to showcase their skills and preserve cultural heritage. This emphasis on traditional techniques not only ensures the continuation of artisanal practices but also enhances the economic opportunities available to these artists. Sustainable fashion also emphasizes fair trade and ethical sourcing, ensuring that artisans receive fair wages and work in safe conditions. This commitment contributes to the economic empowerment of local communities, helping to alleviate poverty and improve overall social well-being.

As we navigate through the complexities of the fashion industry, it's clear that the path to sustainability and ethical practices is multifaceted but essential. By embracing traditional techniques, empowering local artisans, and prioritizing transparency and fair labour practices, we can pave the way for a more responsible and compassionate fashion future. In conclusion, the marriage of ethical fashion and Indian textiles holds immense promise for the future of the industry